Top vent options for heater temps


 
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Olly_G

New member
Hi all,
yesterday I found out about the propping open of the lid for higher temps, couldnt believe what was achievable with this additional airflow, very impressed.
My questions is, instead of adding an additional top vent, would one of the in line fan systems simply fit to the existing top vent which you could increase flow out the cooker thus giving you the same effect without propping the lid open?
Loving all the help here so far!
 
I'd imagine it would be better to force cool clean air in through the bottom vents. Other wise you vacuum fan will have to deal with heat, oil, greease and smoke accumulation.
 
ah yes good point, dirty smoke and vans wouldn't be good!
think I will go with an additional top vent, anyone done this mod?
 
I did. I put my second vent where the Weber thermometer was located. I drilled out the replacement daisey wheel so I could use a bolt that was the same size as the hole for the Weber thermometer. I removed the stop fingers from the replacement daisy wheel so I could bolt it to the lid with no holes. Put some masking tape down under the daisey wheel. You want to make sure one vent hole will cut out or remove the slot for the thermometer bezel. Trace the vent holes on to the masking tape. Remove the daisey wheel and mark the center of the vent holes. If you can use a small drill bit to start a pilot hole. Normally you would center punch them but it will cause the porcelain coating to shatter and can flake off beyond the vent holes. After the small pilot hole is drilled use a step bit to enlarge them.

I then drilled a hole inline with the handle to install a river country 2" temp gauge. I wanted the vents to be spaced appart with one on each side of the handle so I chose to use the thermometer holes for the second vent. Then moved / changed the temp gauge.
 
The other thing for high heat is to use a 1 1/2 to 2" machine screws in the door. Clean you door so you can mark it. Trace the top / latch end on the inside with the door installed. Then install the door upside down. Then trace the latch side again from the inside.

Now drill two small holes for the screws slightly below the lowest line traced and out toward the edge of the opening. You want the nuts for the screws to end up below the line otherwise the door won't close all the way. Put the screws in the holes with the nuts on the inside. You use the screws as legs to hold the door up in place but propped open with the door upside down. It turns your door in to a big vent.

Doing this with the second lid vent allows you to reach 350+ deg with a rolling boil in the water pan. Makes for I high heat, high humidity cook.
 
I've added 2 vents to the lower chamber & 1 on the lid.
Works well.
I don't use water.

Myself... I'd avoid using a fan in the bottom vents - it could possibly blow ash onto the food.
 
Thanks for the replies! This is great information, however I've already installed the river country where the Weber one was, this may be a problem as I had to bore a good size hole for it, any ideas round this? Or can it still work
 
Olly_G said:
Thanks for the replies! This is great information, however I've already installed the river country where the Weber one was, this may be a problem as I had to bore a good size hole for it, any ideas round this? Or can it still work
Click to expand...

It can still be done. Here's a pic of my 14.5:

PICT1212_zpspiivmcqb.jpg


I did the same to my 18.5, just don't have a photo of it handy.
 
will have a look at doing the suggestions at the weekend, I love how versatile this smoker is, the high heat mods will allow me to cook so much more.
What sort of foods would benefit from a high heat/ humidity cook?
The water pan is often a must for me, I know lots of people don't but I find it virtually impossible to cook brisket and beef ribs without the pan, as they just dry out.
 
Olly_G said:
Thanks for the replies! This is great information, however I've already installed the river country where the Weber one was, this may be a problem as I had to bore a good size hole for it, any ideas round this? Or can it still work
Click to expand...

The vent hole diameter is probably going to be larger than what the thermometer requires. Id get the replacement set of dampers then grind the stop tabs off them. Then just move it around to see where you can have it work best
 
JBooker said:
The other thing for high heat is to use a 1 1/2 to 2" machine screws in the door. Clean you door so you can mark it. Trace the top / latch end on the inside with the door installed. Then install the door upside down. Then trace the latch side again from the inside.

Now drill two small holes for the screws slightly below the lowest line traced and out toward the edge of the opening. You want the nuts for the screws to end up below the line otherwise the door won't close all the way. Put the screws in the holes with the nuts on the inside. You use the screws as legs to hold the door up in place but propped open with the door upside down. It turns your door in to a big vent.

Doing this with the second lid vent allows you to reach 350+ deg with a rolling boil in the water pan. Makes for I high heat, high humidity cook.
Click to expand...

Something like this: http://virtualweberbullet.com/accessdoor.html#upside
 
Exactly. I marked my door installed both right side up and upside down. Then went off the shorter of the two. That way if for some reason the door fit differently one way I wouldn't be stuck with having the door always upside down, or right side up.
 
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