heatermeter v5?
- Thread starter ScottS
- Start date
Yeah I mean, the majority of the hardware stuff has been taken care of. We've got support for both regular and thermocouple probes, we've got WiFi, and we've got servo+fan output capabilities. What else could you add, hardware-wise? Maybe a color/LCD screen at best, and most folks won't care for it. I think if there were ever a future hardware need, it would be for something like support for 2+ cookers at once, etc.
The software is where all the magic happens. I'd expect to see 2 things happen over the coming years:
1. Adaptation to other rPi devices and other microcomputers
2. Improvements to software performance and features.
What else could you need?
The software is where all the magic happens. I'd expect to see 2 things happen over the coming years:
1. Adaptation to other rPi devices and other microcomputers
2. Improvements to software performance and features.
What else could you need?
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WELL worded, young Nick (by the way,how did Memphis go?). If you look at other options for smoker controllers, I think the HM is a bit hard to beat, both in price and features. No other controller has fan and/or damper control, no other controller has "built in" graphing, no other controller has user settable PID (as far as I know), and, most important, NO controller has more user support than the heatermeter. Plus, if your savvy enough (I'm not), you can re-write to code to suit!
There will be new versions developed as time progresses, but I agree with NickMV in that the current version is the most stable version developed thus far. It has most/all of the features that any BBQ enthusiast, be it beginner or professional, could want. Sure, it can't control multiple smokers like the "Stoker", but ALL of the parts for the HM are readily available, and you will never find yourself having to pay $65 for a proprietory part with the HM.
There are a few key names you need to follow here on the forum. Of course, Cap'n Bry (Brian Mayland), Steve_M is a genius on the electronics aspect and is a regular answer, SteveCK has some great ideas and damper designs, DavidNP has some alternative options that will blow your mind. and RalphTrimble always amazes us with both his designs and input into the forum.
Take the heatermeter project for what it is. An AWESOME open source project that develops ideas over days, not years.
Should you wait? Hell No! Build it, and the BBQ sniffers will come.
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Steve_M
TVWBB Guru
From what I can tell the current v4.2.4 and "coming soon" v4.3 will be exactly the same, function for function, other than the fact that v4.3 will support the newer Raspberry Pis, but not the on-board wifi (see below).
Unless something revolutionary comes around, I'm not sure how many more improvements can be made on the hardware side. As it's been stated, the real magic is in the software, which is where the the focus will probably end up being. As newer RasPi's and other devices come out, it's becoming more challenging to keep the current LinkMeter code base, based on OpenWrt 12.09 from 2013 updated.
Unless something revolutionary comes around, I'm not sure how many more improvements can be made on the hardware side. As it's been stated, the real magic is in the software, which is where the the focus will probably end up being. As newer RasPi's and other devices come out, it's becoming more challenging to keep the current LinkMeter code base, based on OpenWrt 12.09 from 2013 updated.
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Ron Van Iwaarden
New member
How would one get involved in any such work? I find myself in need of a project and I (currently) have some time to spare...
--Ron
Steve_M
TVWBB Guru
Bryan Mayland
TVWBB Hall of Fame
Yup this is exactly right. v4.2 and v4.3 are functionally identical and v5 is probably at least a year out.
Neither of them mention the Pi Zero. Will it work with either one?
Bryan Mayland
TVWBB Hall of Fame
oops thanks. Yes Pi Zeros work with both. Attaching the wifi adapter needs one of those super tiny connectors or one of the 5 inch ones where the wifi will dangle outside of the case.
Paul Krayeski
New member
Hey guys. New to the forum as I just got my kit from the online store. Having read up on the design a lot I would say it's very worked out and definitely worth digging in right now and getting started. Seems like once most do they continue working on this over the long haul.
Thanks to all of you gurus who spent countless hours putting this together. My teenage daughter expressed an interest in pursuing engineering and I decided this was the perfect summer project for her to get some wide ranging experience! HW, SW, ME, PID Theory, etc.... and there such a good wealth of info on the sites for her to work independently. Of course, I'll get a nice HM out of the effort but might have to jump in to help out from time to time.
Any recommendations on which fan mount to select for a large BGE? Seems like there are few out there to choose from and not sure if you all have any preference/advice. My office has a 3D printer so I was going to have my girl come by and work with the one of the MEs to print out the case and the fan mount so he can show her the ME tool chain as well. (She initial thought MEs only worked on engines).
Also how water resistant is the standard HM case? I would think Bryan is familiar with south florida rains which worries me a little for long cooks.
Thanks to all of you gurus who spent countless hours putting this together. My teenage daughter expressed an interest in pursuing engineering and I decided this was the perfect summer project for her to get some wide ranging experience! HW, SW, ME, PID Theory, etc.... and there such a good wealth of info on the sites for her to work independently. Of course, I'll get a nice HM out of the effort but might have to jump in to help out from time to time.
Any recommendations on which fan mount to select for a large BGE? Seems like there are few out there to choose from and not sure if you all have any preference/advice. My office has a 3D printer so I was going to have my girl come by and work with the one of the MEs to print out the case and the fan mount so he can show her the ME tool chain as well. (She initial thought MEs only worked on engines).
Also how water resistant is the standard HM case? I would think Bryan is familiar with south florida rains which worries me a little for long cooks.
SteveCK
TVWBB Pro
Welcome to the Forum. The HeaterMeter is a great project. Any aspiring engineer will love putting it together and fiddling with it when it's done. It's also great that you are encouraging your daughter into science and technology - we need more women in these field (and not just for looking at!).
As far as a fan/blower/damper setup, I'm a bit biased because I am the creator of one. There are a few available here that are open source the MicroDamper, the Adapt-A-Damper, and the Tom Kole's Barrel Servo V2. The MicroDamper is designed to utilize a 40mm inline fan, while the latter two utilize a centrifugal 90* blower. The Adapt-A-Damper has the longest and most printed parts if you are interested in showing your daughter more 3D printiing. Then I think Tom Koles design has the second longest, followed by the MicroDamper.
The HeaterMeter case isn't water resistant at all. I'd be interested if someone would be willing to seal up their case with silicone and put it out in the rain to see how it holds up though...
As far as a fan/blower/damper setup, I'm a bit biased because I am the creator of one. There are a few available here that are open source the MicroDamper, the Adapt-A-Damper, and the Tom Kole's Barrel Servo V2. The MicroDamper is designed to utilize a 40mm inline fan, while the latter two utilize a centrifugal 90* blower. The Adapt-A-Damper has the longest and most printed parts if you are interested in showing your daughter more 3D printiing. Then I think Tom Koles design has the second longest, followed by the MicroDamper.
The HeaterMeter case isn't water resistant at all. I'd be interested if someone would be willing to seal up their case with silicone and put it out in the rain to see how it holds up though...
Tony L-Iowa
TVWBB Fan
I'm not putting my HM in the rain but I waterproofed mine by buying a tupperware container, trimmed down the plastic with a dremel near the lid so cables can go in/out. Seems to work good and it's a cheap solution.
Dave Smith
TVWBB Super Fan
You'd still have water getting in by way of display, push buttons and jacks.
I just bought a ready built HM but have alot of questions. Does anyone have PID settings for a Primo LG300 bbq, how do I change the time to be the real time, how do I save my graphs. I have run two tests and each time the the temperature goes over and under the set point of 225 by 10-15 degrees and after about 4 hours the charcoal dies out and the temperature eventually goes to ambient and there is still plenty of charcoal in the bbq. I am using a fan/ damper combo. I am trying to find where to make changes to the setting of the HM. I will continue reading thru this site but i am new to charcoal bbqing and the HM and it seem a little overwhelming - the HM portion. Thanks
JVisser, this isn't the best thread to answer your questions. I'm new to the HM world, but so far, it has worked great for me on my Primo XL using the MicroDamper. Here are my current settings, but I'm still playing with them. P = 4, I = 0.003, D = 4. I have Fan "on above" 25% (so I only use the damper for small adjustments), "fan max" 60%
For the Primo, I find that it is very important to set the top vent based on the cook you are doing. Basically, keep the top vent like you would for a normal manual control. A did a 6 hour 225° beef ribs recently and had the top vent open less than ¼" - probably closer to ⅛" - just a sliver. For for 275°, I keep it ½" to 1". My fire has never gone out although I still see 5-10°*overshoots when I first start up (hence I'm still playing with the PID numbers). Fire going out could be the result of a soot clogged firebox or too many small pieces that prevent good airflow.
In the HeaterMeter configuration page, the "System" tab lets you set your timezone. It should pick up realtime properly from the internet assuming your HM has Internet connectivity.
To save graphs, I just take a screen shot on my Mac or iPad at the point you want. Or you can export your graph data as spreadsheet file from the "Archive" area.
For the Primo, I find that it is very important to set the top vent based on the cook you are doing. Basically, keep the top vent like you would for a normal manual control. A did a 6 hour 225° beef ribs recently and had the top vent open less than ¼" - probably closer to ⅛" - just a sliver. For for 275°, I keep it ½" to 1". My fire has never gone out although I still see 5-10°*overshoots when I first start up (hence I'm still playing with the PID numbers). Fire going out could be the result of a soot clogged firebox or too many small pieces that prevent good airflow.
In the HeaterMeter configuration page, the "System" tab lets you set your timezone. It should pick up realtime properly from the internet assuming your HM has Internet connectivity.
To save graphs, I just take a screen shot on my Mac or iPad at the point you want. Or you can export your graph data as spreadsheet file from the "Archive" area.
HI Ken, which thread is better for these set up questions ? Also, where are you going to actually change the settings ?