Heatermeter Stand


 
W

WBegg

TVWBB Pro
Sitting around the house on a day off today, I got bored so decided to design a stand for the heatermeter.

It consists of two end pieces and a couple of rails. The rails aren't necessarily required as the stand pieces are secure enough, that they don't really move. If you do decide to print the rails, you may have to reduce the scale a bit as they are a tight fit.

I've posted the files on thingiverse here ... http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1294406

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great work! thanks for sharing..

...just a thought.....I'm thinking in another version could serve two purposes....a couple of 'hooks' on the back of the legs (or maybe even the bottom legs) can be used to 'wrap' up probes/wires when not in use....cord wrapping stand ;)
 
DavidNP said:
great work! thanks for sharing..

...just a thought.....I'm thinking in another version could serve two purposes....a couple of 'hooks' on the back of the legs (or maybe even the bottom legs) can be used to 'wrap' up probes/wires when not in use....cord wrapping stand ;)
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OOOH! I like that idea. What size hooks, you reckon?
 
Another easy addition Will. You could extrude some ovals into the z-axis to allow someone to hang the HeaterMeter as well - assuming the stand holds the unit tight enough. See photo to show the areas (not shapes) of where to extrude.

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Awesome! I have actually been building magnet recesses into all the cases I print and sell. I designed a mount that attaches to the big green egg table holes that the case snaps onto and holds pretty well in my initial tests. I've been going a hundred different directions lately though, cleaning up as my previous job ends so I haven't given it a real long term test yet.
 
Neodymium magnets are actually amazingly strong, and have he added benefit of being a no look solution. Get it close enough and they pull it into place. Also, it looks cleaner.

But you are correct in that an actual socket would be a stronger connection. Though I'm not sure how strong it really needs to be.
 
DavidNP said:
for hanging....magnets may not be the strongest. I'd think a plastic female/male part that uses "keyhole plates" idea would work stronger.
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Keyholes in the back would work but if someone doesn't want to use them then they have giant holes in the back of their case which might be undesirable. The ~1cm diameter magnets are enough to hold it quite securely and it is really easy to pop it off to make adjustments to the setpoint and slap it back down to hold it. I'll post some pictures when I get a chance.

I love the stand concept but I need my whole table area clear because there's just not enough space!
 
here is another vote for the hanging idea. I have a uds that has side tables atached to it. I would love to be able to hang the heater meter under the table. that would keep all the cables out of the way ans also provide some protection from the rain that always seems to happen during my cooks.
 
I'll start with a hook, to be posted soon. Keyhole will come later. Anyone have issues with the braces fitting? if so, print at 99 or 98% scale (braces only).
 
Is anybody printing this stand?

As I do not have a printer, I would love to buy a pair of stands for two of my V4.2.4 HM's.

I just had a SD card crap out due to heat issues and the stand looks like it would be helpful in the hot AZ temps.

Thx.
 
Len M. said:
Is anybody printing this stand?

As I do not have a printer, I would love to buy a pair of stands for two of my V4.2.4 HM's.

I just had a SD card crap out due to heat issues and the stand looks like it would be helpful in the hot AZ temps.

Thx.
Click to expand...


I can print a couple of them for ya. And thanks to you for bringing this thread up as I too can print one for me also.

John
 
remember that if the cross braces fit too tightly, you can always print them at 98-99%. Of course, you really don't need the cross braces.
 
Printed it (sans cross braces) and it fits really great. When I break out the ABS, I think I'll print it again; I expect to eventually crack it in PLA (which is how I printed it this time) if I put it in and out. Great addition though.
 
Bryan Mayland said:
Keyholes in the back would work but if someone doesn't want to use them then they have giant holes in the back of their case which might be undesirable.
Click to expand...

This is the reason I have designed my version of the HM case with semi closed keyholes that can be easily cut out with a sharp utility knife if needed. Most people will probably leave then closed, but they be opened and used if needed.

The thin skin covering the keyhole is only 3 layers thick (.6 mm).

keyhole-1.jpg


The top keyhole is still closed, the one at the bottom is opened.
 
Oh I like that idea! I'd be concerned about whatever screws you hang it on shorting out the Pi on the inside unless you give it plenty of standoff inside the case. Or I guess you have it aligned so that isn't an issue?
 
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