Considering a HeaterMeter, but I'm confused about the probes


 
C

CSchaaf

TVWBB Member
Hello

I've been reading through posts for the last 2 weeks or so and I think I understand much of what I am reading, but I am still confused on which probes will work.

It seems like the thermocouple version is slightly better (right?), but I am still confused on how to get the right probes.

I think that I'd need one thermocouple (for the grate temp) and one (or two?) thermometers for the food - is that right?

For the thermocouple, I'm also confused about which connector works. The Wiki says:
Any K-type thermocouple is supported, and the HeaterMeter jack is a standard miniature type connector. Thermocouples with spade connectors can be used by clipping them to fit into the jack, although this isn't the most secure of connections.
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Looking online, there look to be several styles of K-type. Flat, round, round with flat edges, two different sized pins, flared pins - which ones will fit?

Clipping spade connectors? Does that mean to clip off the horseshoe 'legs' and just use the crimp barrel? Would there be room to take a blank K-type connector, and saddle the spade connectors over the K-type blank pins, then insert the K-type? Basically sandwiching the spade between the HM and K-type connector?

So many questions - any help is appreciated!

Thanks!
 
You want a Type K thermocouple with a mini thermocouple connector having flat blades, one wider than the other. Like shown here in this picture....
Mini%20Plug%202%20Pole.JPG


IDK how any round pin connector or any other connected beside this exact one could work...

On the standard probes, the WIKI lists the probes that will work, basically it's Thermoworks Pro series, Maverick 72/73/732 and some I-grill probes. I much prefer the Thermoworks Pro probes...
 
CSchaaf said:
Clipping spade connectors? Does that mean to clip off the horseshoe 'legs' and just use the crimp barrel? Would there be room to take a blank K-type connector, and saddle the spade connectors over the K-type blank pins, then insert the K-type? Basically sandwiching the spade between the HM and K-type connector?
Click to expand...
Ralph got most of the answers but I'll fill in this one. The horseshoes don't fit into the mini connector they're too wide, but half a horseshoe does. You're left with a pair of pointy bits sort of like the mini connector except they're not connected rigidly.
 
Consider this an additional question...

If you were to buy a thermocouple with the wrong type plug, couldn't you just cut it off and either feed the bare wires into the connectors, or find some spades that fit in and attach to the wires?
 
You could just put the wires into the jack or you could actually solder the wires to the board if you wanted to save money on a jack all together. As long as you put the wires in correct way, it will work without issue, as long as you dont keep moving the unit, as it wont be a secure connection

You can buy a cheap thermocouple on Amazon.com that has a mini k connector or you can buy them from Newark, they are about $2, shipping will be about $6, buy a couple more for spares.
 
Generally you can take the TC plug apart and inside there are screw terminals to secure the wires. So you can change the connector if you want. I just looked at the TC jack on the HM board and I guess it looks like the half round connector would fit in there, but I think it would spread those pins wider than the flat spade type, not sure if that would compromise the connector for using flat spade types in the future? (by spreading the pins and making them not grip the flat pins as well any more) IDK, maybe the terminals have enough spring in them to come back from that. I've never tried, and haven't actually had a round or semi-round TC connector in my hand so IDK how thick the pins are... Personally I just run the flat spade type like in the picture I posted.
 
The round tc connectors wont even come close to fitting. It would just as easy and you wont ruin a connector to place bare wires into the hm tc jack
 
I don't think the thermocouple version is any better than the thermistor version.

Accuracy is the same on both probe types, as I understand it.

Only difference is the higher heat rating of the thermocouples. They aren't any more accurate than the thermistor probes, at least that is what I understand.

The benefit of the thermistor probes is that most BBQ folks already have quite a few of them lying around!
And they are available almost anywhere. They also use a 2.5mm jack, which is much more convenient than a k style plug with the exposed two pins, IMHO.

With the thermistor board you don't need to buy the thermocouple add on board, and if using an RD then the thermistor version is actually handier and more flexible in the configuration of the probes.

Food for thought!
 
JWalker said:
I don't think the thermocouple version is any better than the thermistor version.

Accuracy is the same on both probe types, as I understand it.

Only difference is the higher heat rating of the thermocouples. They aren't any more accurate than the thermistor probes, at least that is what I understand.

The benefit of the thermistor probes is that most BBQ folks already have quite a few of them lying around!
And they are available almost anywhere. They also use a 2.5mm jack, which is much more convenient than a k style plug with the exposed two pins, IMHO.

With the thermistor board you don't need to buy the thermocouple add on board, and if using an RD then the thermistor version is actually handier and more flexible in the configuration of the probes.

Food for thought!
Click to expand...

Part of me wishes I hadn't bought the thermocouple version of the board, because as you say I already have several thermistor probes around. Unfortunately I didn't really know what I was doing when I ordered my HM kit and ended up buying the thermocouple version thinking that since it cost more it must be better. I do like the higher heat resistance, perhaps I can use it during higher heat cooks now, or at least to help rapidly heat the grill before I remove it and let it settle at 400-500ish F. I think I'll just order a couple of them to keep around for when I eventually break the wires or something.
 
ChrisMueller said:
Part of me wishes I hadn't bought the thermocouple version of the board, because as you say I already have several thermistor probes around. Unfortunately I didn't really know what I was doing when I ordered my HM kit and ended up buying the thermocouple version thinking that since it cost more it must be better. I do like the higher heat resistance, perhaps I can use it during higher heat cooks now, or at least to help rapidly heat the grill before I remove it and let it settle at 400-500ish F. I think I'll just order a couple of them to keep around for when I eventually break the wires or something.
Click to expand...

I am in the same boat as well, I ordered with the thermocouple but I think the next one I build will be without it. However, I have been looking at some of the other threads about using the HM for sous vide. This might be where the thermocouple can shine, I picked up a thermocouple probe for liquids and will experiment with it.
 
One thing all you anti-TC guys seem to be missing is the durability factor. Thermistor probes are generally food probes, they can not handle very high temps and can die from exposure to water and steam very easily. I have a huge pile of thermistor probes that I have killed over the past 2 years but I am still using the very first Thermocouple I bought. I've put it through blistering heat, left it outside through last summer, a bad winter, a wet spring and it's still out there right now working like a champ.
So, for the ability to have a large temperature bloom in your pit and not melt your probe in an instant, and the long term longevity of a thermocouple vs a thermistor probe, the TC is an obviously superior choice for a pit probe. I will never go back to thermistor.
Someone commented about the complications using a TC with a Roto Damper... the RDTC board is ONLY needed if you want to run your TC pit probe through the CAT5 cable when running a RD, if you plug your probs directly into the Heater Meter the wiring is the same for the Roto Damper whether you run a Thermocouple or Thermistor pit probe. You can just hand wire with the CAT5 jack from Home Depot and run the blower and servo over the CAT5 cable, same deal whether you go thermocouple or thermistor pit probe. The RDTC board will, however, allow you to run a TC pit probe over a CAT5 cable 50ft or longer. This is what I do, my TC stays out on the grill, my HM stays safe in my kitchen, I suspect this rig could remain in place for years and not have an issue... (other than perhaps crimping a new end on the CAT5 cable from time to time if it sits out in the weather)
 
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I agree with Ralph. The Tc is much more durable. I have one that have been trying to destoy and it keeps on working, its been frozen in water, dropped in the coals, stepped on, broke wires, and the list goes on. As long as the junction does not break, it will work regardless of its condition. And they can be much cheaper. The only cost factor between a tc's are its options.
 
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Well I'm new to this world. Previously I just used whatever probe came with my device. I just got my HeaterMeter built and set up last night, and tonight I tested my old Maverick probes with it. 2 out of 5 work, but the thermocouple probe I just got seems quicker to settle and more solid. I was hoping to find out that it was also more durable, but hadn't gotten to that yet. I trust your word though, Ralph, and look forward to using my thermocouple and becoming a fan soon.

Out of curiosity, why are you keeping broken thermister probes around? Can you repair them?
 
ChrisMueller said:
Out of curiosity, why are you keeping broken thermister probes around? Can you repair them?
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Might need the cable or connector for a project, some work but are kinda flaky so may use them in a pinch or a project where I know they will be abused. You can boil the water out of a waterlogged probe in a deep fryer and (kinda) get them back to life, or maybe tie up and intruder them? LOL
 
RalphTrimble said:
Might need the cable or connector for a project, some work but are kinda flaky so may use them in a pinch or a project where I know they will be abused. You can boil the water out of a waterlogged probe in a deep fryer and (kinda) get them back to life, or maybe tie up and intruder them? LOL
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Fair enough. I have no room to put you down for that. I've got a pile of circuit boards in my basement in case I ever need to de-solder any components off them.

I just ordered me 3 new Thermoworks probes. 2 Pro high heat, and 1 needle type. Even though I've got 2 Maverick probes that work, I am sure they will go out on me sooner or later. Sadly I just missed their sale and paid full price, but perhaps I'll catch them next time and stock up.

On question, on a related, but slightly off topic: is it normal for the Maverick probes to not work if you insert the plug all the way into the jack. I have to back them out about an 1/8th of an inch or so before they'll start showing up on my HM.
 
ChrisMueller said:
On question, on a related, but slightly off topic: is it normal for the Maverick probes to not work if you insert the plug all the way into the jack. I have to back them out about an 1/8th of an inch or so before they'll start showing up on my HM.
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Yes, I always used a small piece of heat shrink on my 732 probes as a spacer.
 
I used a lot of 732 probes in the beginning, had the same issue with them all... but no big deal once you know how to work around it... BUT I've found the 732's to be some of the worst probes around... They seem to have floating ground that causes problems on some setups, the are among the most noisy, on older HM's they were so noisy they would drop off at room temperature in a lot of cases. With the RC filters on the HMv4.2 they appear better, but still the same in reality... And they take on water and die really easy like every other Maverick probe...
 
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