Rebuilding Redhead Genesis 1100


 
W

W Winters

New member
So teardown is going well and parts are ordered. I've been reading previous posts for a few months so I think I've got the basics down but I have a few questions

1. I see a little rust on the frame so I'm going to sand it but when I paint the frame should it be with high heat spray paint like the box or some other paint.
2. The control panel is in good shape but had a few nicks in it (one of the top and a few along the edge) what should I do to seal these up so they don't start to rust and become a bigger problem.
3. I'm following the instructions on restoring the Weber emblem from Chris Allingham's blog but I don't know how to remove the friction clips and will they be usable again if not where do I buy another set?

Thanks
hopefully here are some pictures of my grill and work so far
 
What did you use the automotive silicone rtv on, the control panel or as a fastener for the weber emblem?
 
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I've done a few older silvers and 1000 series grills and always repainted the entire frame. I just used rustoleum regular gloss black paint. My own 1000 done about five years ago looks just like the day I painted it. For the panel try some automotive touch up paint
 
To hold on the Weber emblem. Once you take it off it's really about the only way you'll have it stay on effectively. Doesn't take much a little dab is all
 
So the guy at Home Depot said I should use the 400 grit wet/dry sand paper to strip the paint off the sides and box but after working with it for a few days this is REALLY slow going. I'm thinking something around the 200 grit range might work quicker then move on the the 400 to smooth things out what do you think?
 
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These are questions I would like to know as well. As I am getting ready to start my first project as well. Another question I had was what everyone was doing with the actual porcelain lid to bring its shine back? Just a good waxing...or something totally different.
 
W Winters said:
So the guy at Home Depot said I should use the 400 grit wet/dry sand paper to strip the paint off the sides and box but after working with it for a few days this is REALLY slow going. I'm thinking something around the 200 grit range might work quicker then move on the the 400 to smooth things out what do you think?
Click to expand...

A wire wheel brush on a small angle grinder worked best for me.
Make sure you wear protective gloves,eye glasses and clothing. Those little wire hairs go everywhere. At velocity.
 
I use a small wire cutter. I just cut them off and as I described I glue them back on. Works just fine
 
Wet sanding is very effective. The problem is that most people does not know how to do it. I do not want to suggest anything about your approach, but here's the deal:

- Store the paper in water in a container overnight. Very important. This is a real timesaver, and it will almost cut the sanding time to 50%
- Add a drop of dish detergent to the water before you start sanding.
- Add water during sanding. It flushes away residue, and unclogs the paper.

If you have not tried this, then you will notice that you will get the results you are looking for much faster.

I have not seen what you are trying to restore, but it might be smart to try to start with 200 grit, and change to 400 when you think you are finished with 1/3 of the process, more or less, depending on how high gloss you want from the final finish.
 
Oh how I wish I'd read your post last week, I've never wet sanded before and while I read about the detergent online I didn't soak the paper. Hopefully someone in the future will read this and learn from my mistake. I got through it with a lot of sand paper and many many days of hand sanding. Finished painting today and Weber says the knobs, nuts and bolts I ordered were shipped last week. Here are pictures so far (I had planned on breaking down the frame more but couldn't get some of the plastic parts off without breaking them and couldn't remove some of the bolts so this will have to do). Next the hard part removing those pain in the @#$ clips on the lid, then putting everything back together. Hopefully the installation manual that came with the grill will help.
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I am just not getting it, there doesn't seem to be anything to grab on to to cut except the bolt itself. I can't even get my fingernail under the clip let alone the tip of wire cutters. Is this the same clip?
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Small wire cutter, grab hold of the little spring portion of the clip, work your way around it. It will cut off I've done tons of them I promise
 
It's a tension clip / self locking washer / star washer / internal tooth lock washer. Work something into the hole the down arrow points to and bend the tab back away from the bolt. Then, put the same tool in the larger hole where the tab was and bend back the tabs on either side. Once a number of the tabs are bent back, the clip should come right off, or you might still have to pry a bit.

Alternatively, you can work a fine flat tip under where the sideways arrow is pointing. Then try to pry the clip up. This one should require more effort as you would be working against the tension the tabs create.


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Yes, I finally got the emblem off! Thank you for the help!
I decided to soak the hood in my bathtub with some powder Cascade Complete since it worked so well on the bottom tray (I soak my oven shelves this way to remove burnt on food). It did a great job removing the sticky grease build up I had on the inside of the hood and even removed a lot of the flaky stuff on the inside. I only soaked it for a few hours instead of overnight like I do with my shelves. If I were too do it again I'd probably soak it longer but this was more to remove the sticky grease not to make it look new.

Has anyone taken apart the fuel scale assembly? I'm wondering if the spring latches on to the bolt closest to the front (near where the tank sits)or the one in the back (where it attaches to the frame)?
 
your rebuild looks really good so far and also a fun project. That is a great model of grill to worl with. Keep up the good work can not wait to see the final photos.
 
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