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Thread: LinkMeter v2 Homebrew BBQ Controller - Part 1

  1. #1
    TVWBB Gold Member Bryan Mayland's Avatar
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    Continuing from the origianl LinkMeter thread to avoid confusion of "Research and Development" information.

    LinkMeter is an OpenWrt firmware / package for interfacing to a HeaterMeter Arduino / ATmega328 based automatic BBQ controller. The fusion allows the HeaterMeter to control the grill temperature, while passing the heavy lifting of WiFi access and data storage off to the OpenWrt-compatible router. A more concise description can be found in An Introduction to LinkMeter & HeaterMeter

    LinkMeter Home Screen


    Project Page - GitHub Hosting
    LinkMeter is an open source project and is hosted on my GitHub page. The ultimate source for information is the HeaterMeter Project Wiki which I will flesh out as we go.

    Hardware
    The official HeaterMeter board schematic and parts list is in the GitHub wiki. Do not use the schematic from the git repository eagle directory unless you understand it may be an experimental build depending on when you pull it. The official version linked from the wiki is generally what you need.



    As you can tell the preferred platform is the Linksys WRT54GL router. A rough outline of the required steps to build a LinkMeter
    1) Build a HeaterMeter-for-LinkMeter ATmega328 board. IMPORTANT while you can use the HeaterMeter design from the standalone HeaterMeter schematic posted in the other thread, the official schematic from GitHub has additional components to support additional functionality, as well as being designed to fit inside the WRT54GL case. The official new schematic can also be used in a standalone fashion.

    2) Flash the HeaterMeter with the arduino/heatermeter firmware. This can be done with a USBtinyISP, another Arduino, or any other ICSP programmer you might have.

    3) Flash your WRT54GL with a prebuilt LinkMeter firmware image. Snapshot recommended image. The packages are pre-installed and are only supplied for users wishing to install them on their own firmware.

    4) Connect the HeaterMeter to your router via the internal serial port.

    5) Plug your computer directly into one of the LAN ports. You will be assigned a network address (DHCP) in the 192.168.200.x range. Configure your wireless settings using the web interface at http://192.168.200.1/. Generally, you want your wireless to be configured in Client mode (aka station mode) on your existing wireless network and to use DHCP.

    6) Configure your probes depending on your build and probe types. (More information here soon)

    7) BBQ

    Premade PCBs
    Current revision is v3.2. I use Dorkbot PDX to create the boards using the LinkMeter HM cam output and they will provide 3 boards for ~$28 shipped. Because you get 3 and you only need one, you'll probably have extras. If you have extras or need one post and let us know and I'll try to keep this list up to date:

  2. #2
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    Bryan, is it worth it for those of us running previous releases to upgrade?

  3. #3
    TVWBB Gold Member Bryan Mayland's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Brian Hilgert:
    Bryan, is it worth it for those of us running previous releases to upgrade?
    Oh good question. The LinkMeter-specific web pages load about twice as fast (give or take), aaand you can click on and off the various lines on the graph. So if those features tickle your fancy, there are instructions on the v1 to v2 wiki page.

  4. #4
    TVWBB Gold Member Bryan Mayland's Avatar
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    Just sent my first ever PCB design out to be created. I've got my fingers crossed that in 2 weeks this design works:


    The RFM12B wireless board is completely optional and can be left out to save $8 or so on the build cost. Also note that there is either a 2.1mm barrel jack or a pinheader power input. This means you can use this same PCB to build a straight HeaterMeter board or put it inside the WRT54GL. The dimensions are 2.4"x2.0". I will almost certainly have updates to this, probably changing it to 2.6"x1.8".

    Also hats off to Ed, whose board I am even more in awe of considering how he managed to fit all of this on a one sided board with just a few jumper wires. Also that he managed to make his silkscreen layers not look like complete garbage and actually have the tNames in the right place.

  5. #5
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    Looking forward to this. I was about to bite the bullet and try to build it on perf-board, but if a PCB is potentially only a couple weeks away, I think I can wait.

    Does the LinkMeter have a JSON or XML feed of the data for easy manipulation outside of the built-in pages?

  6. #6
    TVWBB Gold Member Bryan Mayland's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Ben Fillmore:
    Does the LinkMeter have a JSON or XML feed of the data for easy manipulation outside of the built-in pages?
    Yeah you can still get the json from /luci/lm/json and you can get a CSV-style dump of all the data from /luci/lm/hist

    As for the circuit board, yeah I hope it works. I'd have to say it would be a miracle if my first ever PCB design would work first try though.

  7. #7
    TVWBB Fan Dave Smith's Avatar
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    Board looks great, I tried to do one with express....gave up as it looked aweful! lol

    WSM 22.5; 22.5 OTS; MINI

  8. #8
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    Very nice Bryan! How many boards did you order, is there a minimum? Any plans to sell them?

  9. #9
    TVWBB Gold Member Bryan Mayland's Avatar
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    Originally posted by RJ Riememsnider:
    Very nice Bryan! How many boards did you order, is there a minimum? Any plans to sell them?
    I got the standard 3 boards from Dorkbot and I already know there's one problem with them which can be fixed with a jumper wire. I'd also like to add a standard 5 pin FTDI cable header while I'm at it.

    I've actually been informed of another place (the name of which escapes me at the moment) that will do up to ten 10cmx10cm boards for $25. I don't know if they charge a setup fee or shipping though. I doubt I'll be selling them (except for any working prototypes) but I'll be making the schematic and board EAGLE files available via github.

  10. #10
    TVWBB Fan Dave Smith's Avatar
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    Ill keep an eye open for your schematic and Eagle files as I'd like to build this but don't really want to breadboard it...my thoughts if you make it do it nice looking!

    WSM 22.5; 22.5 OTS; MINI

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