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Make your own eyelets/grommets for under $5
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Here is a link to a post I did on anothe forum I belong to. Made my own gromets for feeding probe wires into WSM.

http://www.smokingmeatforums.c...hread/94076/wsm-mods


Bacon - the 5th food goup!
 
Posts: 54 | Registered: May 24, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Cool mod! I may have to do that myself!


Hi,my name is Phil,and I'm a Q-A-Holic! :-)
 
Posts: 2330 | Location: Shuffletown,Charlotte,NC | Registered: April 25, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Nice job. Although I have always wondered why we even need to do anything other than to drill a hole. I drilled a hole in the back and filed it smooth with a little round file. I keep a screw in it when not in use. Two minutes and zero cost. Is it just for looks? Thanks
 
Posts: 4000 | Location: Bay Area | Registered: May 18, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I had thought about just leaving a hole, but didn't for 2 reasons.
1) Didn't want to run the risk of a sharp edge causing undue wear and tare on the probes wire sheeth.
2) It just looked a little less RNE (Red Neck Engineered Big Grin ). heh-heh


Bacon - the 5th food goup!
 
Posts: 54 | Registered: May 24, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thanks, Jl. Great idea. I like this better than the rather "costly" Guru eyelets. For one, I don't have to remove my support bolts (yeah, I know, minor!) but more, I like a dedicate port. If anyone wants to block it, there are plenty of options for covers in the lamp supplies section of a hardware store. BTW, at Lowe's they have a set of collets for $1.95 that include two short (about 1/2") pieces that will work quite well without cutting. But they don't have the matching nuts!
Rich


UNC Tar Heel '69, '75 -- now Woodworker, grandfather
Weber Genesis E-310, Smokey Mountain 18.5
 
Posts: 694 | Location: Central NC | Registered: May 11, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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A very neat solution. The threaded rod is solid brass, and not just brass-plated steel, right? Otherwise it would be subject to rusting since you cut it.

The Guru eyelets weren't costly at all when they first came out (they were giving them away) so I've been very satisfied with mine. But If I had to do it over, today, I think I'd do it your way.


"If we took the bones out, it wouldn't be crunchy, would it?"
18.5 WSM | 22.5 OTG | 18.5 Kettle
 
Posts: 2266 | Location: Piedmont Triad, NC | Registered: November 04, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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That's a great mod! I've been putting off doing this mod (too cheap I guess) but I actually have the necessary hardware on hand Smiler I know what I'm doing tomorrow, and just in time for the Smoke Day Butts!


"Bunch of Weber products"
 
Posts: 241 | Location: Twin Cities, MN USA | Registered: November 06, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Well, I did my mod for the eyelets as described above and it worked very well. The 1/2" length is perfect to allow my probes 90* bend to easily fit in.

The only issue I had was that one hole chipped the porclain some -- drill slowly, I think I accidently pushed too fast. Using several smaller bits to get up to 3/8s might help -- I did 1/8 then 3/8. Fortunately, I have some good quality black enamel on hand. Now you can't see the chip and it came through a 7 hours Sunday smoke with no trouble.

Rich


UNC Tar Heel '69, '75 -- now Woodworker, grandfather
Weber Genesis E-310, Smokey Mountain 18.5
 
Posts: 694 | Location: Central NC | Registered: May 11, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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The rods I found were coated stainless steel - keeping fingers crossed on the rust issue, but they are easy to get in and out if I have to replace them.

To avoid chipping when you drill put 2 pieces of masking or duct tape over the area where you are going to drill. Also make sure to use a center punch before you drill to keep the bit from wandering.


Bacon - the 5th food goup!
 
Posts: 54 | Registered: May 24, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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No argument with your technique, JL. Did that and it still chipped. I agree, do the tape and punch thing or you could cause really serious damage. I was concerned about the exit hole, but it was in entrance that chipped. Maybe going from inside out would be better? Can't say. It could be the contour (concave or convex) that decided. Rich


UNC Tar Heel '69, '75 -- now Woodworker, grandfather
Weber Genesis E-310, Smokey Mountain 18.5
 
Posts: 694 | Location: Central NC | Registered: May 11, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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People doing thermometer mods some time back advocated using step drills to gradually increase the size of the hole without as much chance of chipping the porcelain. Something like this might work even better. When I had to drill through the lip of the water pan, I used a small grinding bit , like you'd use in a Dremel tool, to remove the porcelain in the center of the hole so the drill could start in metal - less chance of the drill bit wandering. For an eyelet-size hole, I would probably drill a small pilot hole and then use the abrasive bit to bring it up to size.


"If we took the bones out, it wouldn't be crunchy, would it?"
18.5 WSM | 22.5 OTG | 18.5 Kettle
 
Posts: 2266 | Location: Piedmont Triad, NC | Registered: November 04, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Larry, the problem with using a cone drill is you're not sure of the finished size of your hole, and it is a tapered hole.

Most problems with drilling metal casn be eliminated r reduced by using a drill bit with a 135 degree angle tip, as opposed to the more common 118 degree angle. Another possible problem I am seeing is drilling in increments. It is fine to use pilot drills(smaller size drills) in a drill press, but I think ou increase the chance of porcelain chipping by doing so with a hand held drill. Get a good quality drill bit from an industrial supplier, should only have to drill one size hole, not multiple passes.
 
Posts: 65 | Location: Ottawa ON | Registered: October 08, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I've now completed everything I want to do for the probe eyelets (had to get the correct nuts from Home Depot -- Lowe's didn't have them. Look in the lamp/fan dept. for these parts. After drilling, I put a thin coat of black enamel paint (exterior/high heat) on the bare metal. Then threaded the 1/2" grommet through (things got tight so I used pliers to thread -- don't collapse your grommet!) and again applied the paint inside and out around the joint (thin coat just to ensure the seal). Then threaded on the nuts securely (don't try to over-tighten) followed by the brass caps I got to cover the hole.

As JL said, covering the hole may not be needed, but we have lots of hornets looking for a sheltered home that love those 3/8" holes (I keep my vents closed except when smoking). So the caps keep out the critters and also eliminates the minor air/smoke leakage. It's easy to take them off to thread the probe.

Rich


UNC Tar Heel '69, '75 -- now Woodworker, grandfather
Weber Genesis E-310, Smokey Mountain 18.5
 
Posts: 694 | Location: Central NC | Registered: May 11, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Lew
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quote:
Also make sure to use a center punch before you drill to keep the bit from wandering.
I would advise against using a center punch. You have 2 chances of chipping the porcelain: once with the punch, once with the drill. I find the tape keeps the bit from wandering.


Lew
'97 22.5 Bar-B-Kettle, '02 Genesis Silver C, '05 WSM 18.5 w/Pro-Q Stacker, '10 SJS, '06 Performer, '79 18.5 redhead
 
Posts: 326 | Location: Marietta, GA | Registered: April 28, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Provided you put the tape down before you punch and don't try to hammer your punch all the way through it shouldn't be a problem. Just one solid tap... not a hard blow. It realy doesn't take much of a dimple at all to hold the bit steady.

Also use some 3-in-1 oil (or heck even some veg. oil) to lubricate the cutting of the bit. It realy helps a lot.


Bacon - the 5th food goup!
 
Posts: 54 | Registered: May 24, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I went by a local place recently that sells miscellaneous stuff from freight overages, damaged goods, etc. Anyway, they had a box of brass fittings that look like they would work as eyelets, no modification needed (except to add a nut), at ten cents each. If I get a chance to go by again I'll pick up a couple and post a photo.


"If we took the bones out, it wouldn't be crunchy, would it?"
18.5 WSM | 22.5 OTG | 18.5 Kettle
 
Posts: 2266 | Location: Piedmont Triad, NC | Registered: November 04, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Perfect Mod. I did this to mine as well. I run both probes from my ET-73 through one eyelet.

You can also get a cap that fits on the lamp rod. My Home Depot had them in the same section as the rod and nuts. I got one to keep the wasps out...


"Teach a Man to Q, and he'll feed em' for a lifetime..."
18.5" WSM w/DIY Auto Temp Controller, Performer, Kenmore Gasser, Cheap Charcoal Camp Grill
 
Posts: 80 | Location: Missouri | Registered: July 01, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by ACrocker:
Perfect Mod. I did this to mine as well. I run both probes from my ET-73 through one eyelet.

You can also get a cap that fits on the lamp rod. My Home Depot had them in the same section as the rod and nuts. I got one to keep the wasps out...


Great mod. I did this to my WSM, Kettle, and Cajun Bandit today. Thanks for the ideas!
 
Posts: 68 | Location: Edmond, Ok | Registered: September 29, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Not to side track this thread but is that a new ET73?
 
Posts: 2344 | Location: Evansville, Indiana | Registered: April 11, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Originally posted by paul h:
Not to side track this thread but is that a new ET73?


Hey Paul, No- it's just an ET-7. I think it's been around for a while now. Here is a link:

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obi...N/B00004SZ10/tvwb-20

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Chris Allingham,
 
Posts: 68 | Location: Edmond, Ok | Registered: September 29, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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